Dinner sa Ya Hua: Bak Kut Teh

The first part of this story (about the name) is dedicated to Cebuano and Waray-speaking readers for a little laugh! Of course the latter part is dedicated too to all of you, my avid readers of this blog, who like eating pork, and those who like another kind of "spicy". Masarap, hindi yata ito ginagamitan ng sili!

Yes yes, my bisdak and waray-waray friends, no need to analyze, ponder or re-think, whatever it is that comes to your mind, that is how you pronounce the first two words. For example as in Ya-wa, Yawa-a, Nga Yawa, Nga ka gi-yayawa-i hin nga yawa, as in yawa sa tanan nga yawa hahaha! Ganun nga talaga!

The store name, Ya Hua, I assure you, was not the reason why I liked this restaurant. Here's the story...

After settling at my 48th floor room of Swissotel The Stamford, I thought about dinner. "Bak Kut Teh" was the first to come to my lowly mind. You see, I lately have this penchant of feasting upon Bak Kut Teh, every time I am in, or pass by Singapore. It has been some kind of obsession for a few years now.

And, I knew there is at least one place down at the food center area of Raffles City where I could enjoy Bak Kut Teh. There could be more of them, but I remember this one, to be near the escalator and also near the supermarket. I easily found it. But when I saw the name, I secretly burst into laughter. Ya Hua!

Let's clarify this full name of the place: Ya Hua is really the name of the store, perhaps also the name of the person who owns or founded it, maybe even a place of yesteryear's where the dish came from or started. Now Bak Kut Teh (which many folks in Singapore casually pronounce as just 'ba-ku-teh') is a pork rib soup. One of the best kinds of soup or stew I have ever tasted - probably due to hefty garlic.

Okay. After that brief (and muffed) laugh due to the name Ya Hua, I looked at the entrance where their menu is displayed, and what seemed to be a counter for taking orders fastfood-Singapore-style. Alas dimalas no one was around to attend to that counter, so I proceeded inside and chose a table to settle my hungry royal self in. I was there a while.., and nothing was happening. What was I not doing right?

I did notice that an elderly staff (halos lahat sila ganun, di ba?), not that one standing, kept glancing at me while she cleaned tables or attend to diners' needs. I think she was even talking loudly ABOUT ME (or my table) with her fellow staff (another oldie). However, she was not (at all) that usual grumpy old lady (most of them are, right?). In fact, her tone was more on the 'pity' side. Yeah, I really thought and felt naawa siya/sila sa akin. So nagpa-cute ako, flashing a smile, making it obvious I'm not from here!

She approached my table and asked me "You order already?", to which I smilingly replied with "no, but how do I get to order food here?" O ha, ang innocent ko, di ba? And she exhaled a fairly audible sigh of relief (as if saying, "just as I thought"). Then she said "oh, you tick what you like on this paper, then pay the counter, come back this table, your food will arrive". Yun pala ang gamit nung mga papel sa mesa!

Pa-cute pa rin, pa-ignorante effect, I looked at the counter and said "oh, but nobody there". She craned her neck to check if indeed no one was at that counter (it looks like a lectern, actually), all of a sudden she let out a loud scream on top of her lungs! It sounded to me like "wachaaa, wachai waching wacha wachi wacho wacha" hehe. It sounded like galit na galit sya as she looked over to the kitchen section.

Immediately, a youngish insik-looking bespectacled gentleman (mukhang college student lang) came running out of the kitchen area, and positioned himself at that lectern! Then the lady looked at me and said smilingly "ok go", pointing to the boy. And so I ordered, I mean I gave the paper where I ticked off one Bak Kut Teh and a bowl of rice, paid for it, and returned to my table. Grabe, na-"culture shock" ako!

I mean, I was not shocked at their 'ordering procedure'. I was more astonished, that such a loud angry scream could (still) be done by present-day human beings, at an opulent-looking restaurant inside one of the most posh malls of Singapore! Parang nasa karinderia ka lang sa sidewalk o eskinita, at si inay e nagtititili sa galit. Parang "marketer" (ibig sabihin palengkera). Somehow, ganun ang dating sa akin!

But if I look at it via another lens, this was also a bit surprising - that somehow, even if very rare, these old people (as service crew) in Singapore, can actually smile, be genuinely caring and helpful! At least to me, and in that situation. I mean, even before she approached me, basa ko na sa mata nya, parang awang-awa siya sa isang tatanga-tanga na taga-bundok, in the person of "ako"! Aba oi, miracle na yan!

Rare hence shocking! Try counting older(elder) service staff na friendly or pala-ngiti! Halos wala. Da!

Anyway..,

Let us describe 'Bak Kut Teh' a bit more, may I? For us Pinoys, the best way to "interpret" it should be: nilagang pork ribs, with a ton of whole garlic cloves, a sackful of paminta, without ni katiting na asim!

Black Pepper and garlic are key ingredients that make this different from other stews. Humahagod sa lalamunan at pagpapawisan ka ng ga-butil na tatagaktak galing sa anit mo! Uhuh, that last sentence, I don't know how to English that, I'm not school hehe. Basta, ang saraaap! Lamiscious as in marasarap!

Lastly, Singapore has many places that offer, or even specialize in Bak Kut Teh. I saw that there is/are in China Town. There's also one at the food-street-style eateries inside Changi T3, and there is another at the level 3 food court in T2. The last two locations are where I have frequently enjoyed Bak Kut Teh.

Ah, I once had Bak Kut Teh in Kuala Lumpur. It tasted almost the same, just a bit milder on the pepper; and their's is not clear soup - it was brownish and thicker - probably soy sauce and cornstarch added.

Anyway, if you want Bak Kut Teh at Raffles City.., ah, Ya Hua!

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