At The Heart of Baguio

Let us continue our aimless-wandering-around of Baguio. After that Haunted House, we drove to Café By The Ruins - ipapasikat as only two of us had been there before. We were sure everyone would love its rustic café ambiance in the middle of the city.

Baguio City Hall
However, fortunately or unfortunately (that depends on whose view we take) the best parking option for all of us, being a Saturday, was up at the city hall (City Hall Drive).

This city hall can be a nice 'sight to see' for many tourists, were it not overshadowed by the city's very own other beauties, which of course, is never wrong anyway, right?!

For those like me who're fond of beautiful old structures, this Baguio city hall should already count. It's old (at least as an institution), since Baguio was chartered in 1909. The building may have been originally wood. Now (post WWII?) it is totally concrete.

As one friend said "of course this must have been repaired many times since then" and they started picture-picture! But, they immediately shifted to the surrounding greens.

Yes, the park/garden fronting the building heheh! That's what I mean when I say this city hall is getting "obscured" (literally) by lovely pine trees, and (figuratively) by highly touristic places like Burnham Park, Session Road, the cathedral, public market, etc.!

As for me, I will return alone to learn more about this city hall. Kasi, it's not easy with these friends I was with on this crazy boisterous trip - na, masaya naman. Example? You bend or squint to read a marker, one will grab your shoulder saying "oy teka lang pictyuran mo muna kami dito, 'sama buong building ha, o" sabay abot ng mga camera!

Ganun yun. Because the trees, shrubs and flowers are really photo-ops worthy.

Syempre pictorial to da max muna (sila), before walking down to the café. As for me and two others, we waited down at the edge of Rizal Park, facing that city hall - there it is at the top of City Hall Drive, in turn above Shuntug St. behind those lovers!

Oops, all those people on that photo weren't our friends hehe. Madlang public yan sila. Sori po! By the time I clicked that pic, our friends were still up at the city hall. Lumusob yata sa loob, o baka umakyat pa ang mga animal dun sa clock-tower haha!

Rizal Park
Meanwhile, I walked around this Rizal Park curious, because I had a very strong vibe I've been here before in another lifetime.., or another life-form.., on a nighttime hehehe!

Yes, this is it nga. I've been here last May! So this is how it looks during daytime. It's not big - just a tiny fraction of Luneta. Laden with trees, shrubs and flowers anyway.

This place does not have park benches. But it is in a sloping topography so that the concrete paths have wide concrete stairs that serve as sitting areas - in addition to the edges of the planters or flower boxes. That's more romantic situation for lovers!

Aruu, ang romantic-romantic na yan... kaya sa gabi, laganap ang transaksiyones dito!

Ah, in this park (all the way to Burnham actually), it is common to see lovers "holding hands while walking", even at noon. Like in that photo above. Yes, tanghaling tapat! Well, this was a cool (not cold) late November. The sun is never that harsh up here.

And one thing I noted (that I wanted to look-at, but never got to do yet), the streets on both sides of Rizal Park are terminus areas for jeeps to/from Benguet destinations.

Hmm, that's reason enough for me to come back and explore. Okay, noted!

Meanwhile, everyone was already gathered at the cafe, so entered.

Café By The Ruins
This isn't new. This has been where it is - across the city hall (Suntug St. cor. Abanao Extension) since the late 1980s. It just has garnered more attention as time went by.
This was just my second time, and, I will maintain my first impression - "do not judge a book by its cover" - on being at this place for the 1st time. Enter, eat and be wowed.

It's not just about artworks (mostly for sale) hanging on their walls, as you may have already heard this is a hub of/for both established and budding artists. Oy, I learned on my first visit, they even hold kiddie and adult art classes here - from time to time.

It isn't just about the habitués that don't seem to match our preconceived notions of venues. Just look at that entrance and their bamboo fencing. You might say "so-so".

Yet when you enter, you'll see that diners are not your just-just crowd! They're mostly white-collar folks, media people, notable names of Baguio (or the country) - and me!

I think it's about the food in that rustic ambiance. So, mag-order ka, kumain ka, wag lang mag-bottled-water at mag-kodak. I say that for we saw 3 folks who did just that!
Tempting naman kasi! Anywhere in this place is a good photo-op. Look at that, would you even think that is in the middle of 3 busy streets just across the city hall? Di ba?

Anyway, food in this place is very obviously what regulars keep coming-back-to. It is better than many high-end restaurants in the city. My friends said that. Not me. I am only a master at eating (when I like the food), not analyzing and comparing them all!

Now.., why is it called by the ruins? Aw, first be aware, that the stories online, saying it was built on a place ruined by the 1990 earthquake, is NOT TRUE. This came first!

This was already a Café by the ruins even before the 1990 earthquake happened. In fact, this was used by the owners, as staging area and/or command center, as their way of assisting, in the various humanitarian efforts to help the earthquake victims.

So bakit nga 'café by the ruins'? ha? Well, this spot, together with the adjoining lots, was indeed the "ruins", of what once was the residence of the First Governor of the Province of Benguet (1900) Hubert Phelps Whitmarsh. It was bombed during WWII.

Kaya ayun, naging "ruins", and it remained so for a long time. So that, when the art-loving group of owners created this café... no need to overthink for a 'unique name'.

Here's more, if you hear: this was the ruins of a Garden Theater or Outdoor Cinema, just smile and agree, for indeed, this place was all of the above! Originally, this was the 1st outdoor cinema of Baguio. Di yata masyadong dinumog - eh ang lamig kaya!

So he had his house built, but part of the compound (kasama iyang adjoining houses and now buildings in the original "lot") still retained a "garden theater". Until binomba!

Trivia: a friend told me that, it was actually the Americans that bombed this place. The claim says: everything was occupied by the Japs, until Americans bombed them away!

Kumbaga, binomba at nabawi! Historically historical, 'no?!

That's one lovely confluence of a present-day café, Baguio's American-period history, isama mo pa ang local art community, and the city's continuously evolving scenery.

This cafe is at the corner of Shuntug St., and Abanao St. Extension.

Interesting Street Names!
One of my friends asked me "who is Shuntug"? I said "I don't know". We asked one of the waiters. His reply was "ha? tagaBaguio po ba sya?" I said "it's your street address". His final reply (while scratching his head) was: "Di ko po alam, taga-Dagupan ako eh"!

While he and all of us laughed, an amiable lady (who was walking around & greeting diners), overheard and approached us with: "may I help you"? We repeated our query.

Smilingly she explained "oh Shuntug, sometimes also pronounced as Chuntug is not a person. It's an indigenous Ibaloi word that means mountain". We were merrily amazed.

I said "oh wow, so this is Mountain Street"! She beamed saying "actually, yes"! And this engaging topic about 'Baguio streets nomenclature' ensued, with her as our 'teacher'!

Uniquely, majority of Baguio's thoroughfares were/are named after 1) 'nature' in the Ibaloi language; or 2) 'American' names or actions, at least originally before the war.

So Shuntug (Shuntug St.) is mountain. Here are more that I can remember from our lively conversation: Otek (Otek St.) means small or short; Chanum (Shanum St.) not far from the Ilocano Danum, means water; Ambanaw (now Abanao St.) means wide; Shagem (Chugum St.) means wind; Kayang (Kayang St.) means high, or even uphill.

And many more like Kisad, Bokawkan, Pacdal, even Kias, Loakan, Bakakeng, etc.!

The "American Originals" are also plentiful like: Gov. Pack, Leonard Wood, Harrison, Kennon Roads, etc. Well, Session Road wasn't about a person but a sort of "travel".

The First Philippine Commission (Schurman Commission) held meetings from April to June of 1904 in Baguio (mainit daw kasi sa Manila)! Their meeting venue was the Baden-Powell House (it is now a hostel, harapan ng bus terminal) at Gov. Pack Road.

On their way to that house (also called Baden-Powell Hall), the commissioners had to pass by an ascending dirt road (from places where they lived, like the market area doon sa baba) - and they referred to that as "the road on the way to their sessions".

Shortened it meant Session Road. And that moniker stayed.

In the pre-World War II era, Ibaloi and American street names were 'standard'. Those national heroes, politicians, Catholic saints, flowers and fancier street names came mostly after the war, as Baguio grew. Examples: Happy Queen St., Bright Yellow St.!

How fun are the funny road names of Baguio?
Ay, some can make you alert. Like Maulbery Road, if you're not meticulous, you may think you just read Mulberry. But no, they are not the same - ispeling pa lang, iba eh!

There is also an Add Road. And you would naturally wonder... is there a Subtract, or Multiply or even a Divide Road? I didn't see any. But Add Road is an odd road name!

Then there is Sariling Sikap Street, and that had me and my friends laughing. In my generation kasi, that phrase colloquially equates with Mary Palmer or Mariang Palad. For older folks it's the nominalized verb form of the word bayó, if y'know what I mean!

The real mind-boggler: there's a Happy Hollow Road leading to Brgy. Happy Hallow. Baka typographical error lang? Well, you can go there to check the street name, the barangay hall and Happy Hollow Elementary School, versus Happy Hallow National High School! Your brain will spin a bit and say "what did they really originally mean"?

Oist, Hollow and Hallow are two distinct words. Pero whatever, basta Happy!

Tara, let's go na lang to the opposite mountain.

Nandoon ang CJH, RPUB at PMA - in that order!

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