Brunei Tour: Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III Mosque


Masjid Omar Ali Safuddien Mosque Banda Seri Begawan Brunei
Masjid Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien III or Masjid SOAS. That's how most locals refer to it, while visitors and tourists like you and me would know it like I wrote in the title of this blog entry. Quite a long name!

Hmm, maybe SOAS Mosque would be a shorter way to refer to it, at least for us non-Malay-speakers. I do know though, that "masjid" is "mosque". Now that you know it too, let's just stick with Masjid SOAS!

I kept saying Omar Ali Saifuddien "Ai Ai Ai" Mosque, instead of the usual "the third" that had my guide laughing. At least, I made him laugh! Ah, I don't remember, but I guess I picked that from some private joke at home, school or office. Like we'd say Queen Elizabeth 'Ai Ai' instead of 'the second' or "QE two"!

Mr. Guide thought I was saying "ayayay"! But, still giggly (ewan ko nga ba ba't tuwang-tuwa sya) he did suggest I stop saying that in front of the Brunei public since they could misconstrue that as 'mockery'.

This SOAS Mosque, finished in 1958, by the way, is one of the two most important (national) mosques of Brunei - the other one being the Bolkiah Mosque which we will visit later. This Masjid SOAS may not be the biggest in Brunei, but many locals (and visitors) say that it's the most beautiful mosque in all of Southeast Asia, if not all of Asia. I agree, as indeed, it looks like a mosque taken out of some fairytale.

It was constructed near the confluence of two rivers, yet it is not on any of the rivers. It sits on its own man-made lagoon, that makes the mosque look even more beautiful, especially at dusk, until evening.

Now.., since I stayed too much at Kampung Ayer, our visiting time for SOAS Mosque was affected. We approached when prayer time was about to start - which meant, if we stayed-on to wait for the prayers to be over, all the more that the itinerary prepared by my driver/guide would be very much muddled up.

So I was first to suggest that we just do a "fly-by" on the way to our next destination/s. I have seen the insides of that mosque many years ago, and one cannot take photos in there anyway. Although I really hoped I would once again be able to wear one of those robes they provide to tourists. Pang photo-op!
Jalan Masjid Sultan Ali Saifuddien Mosque across Yayasan Complex before the Syariah Courts Brunei
So we just skirted around Masjid SOAS (as the road does) but driver/guide didn't stop bombarding me with a lot more of information - many of which I previously knew, but have forgotten in 2 decades. Da!

Like... that 'boat' in the middle of the lagoon is a life-size replica of a "Mahligai". Okay, I now know that Mahligai is not really a transport boat, but some kind of a royal platform or barge for performances or ceremonies - in ancient Brunei, mostly for Quran Reading Competitions, since sa tubigan sila nakatira.

So, yun pala ang significane bakit nasa harapan ng mosque yan. Hindi lang pala pampa-beauty!

The SOAS Mosque was based on an earlier concept of SOAS himself, that was then used as a design basis by Booty Edwards & Partners, the architectural firm involved in the construction of said mosque.

The Singapore-based Italian, Rudolfo Nolli (a Cavaliere), was also hired by SOAS. Unfortunately, some online materials identify him as the architect of the mosque, which is questionable, because he wasn't an architect. He was a famous (the best) sculptor and stonework contractor - in all of Southeast Asia! Maybe he made what he was best known for, "sculpture and stonework" of the SOAS Mosque. Maybe.

Have you heard about the novel 'Devil of a State' by Anthony Burgess? the plot is supposed to start at that said mosque, as later confirmed by Burgess himself! Note: Nolli (and his father) were the Italians!

Oist, eto maganda... Sultan Omar Ali Safuddien III abdicated his throne as Sultan in October 1967 at a young age of 53, in favor of his eldest son, the now sitting Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, who was then 21.

SOAS died only in September of 1986. He was 71.

This mosque that can accommodate 3,000 worshippers and has gold-covered domes is 52 meters at its highest part. The marble in its floors/columns are imported from Italy, while the carpet from Saudi!
external view of Sultan Ali Saifuddien Mosque
This mosque is considered a national landmark, and serves as a symbol of the Islamic faith in Brunei.

Sa ganan atin.., it is definitely a great tourist crowd magnet. Ang ganda eh!

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