Roaming Ilocos: Around Laoag
From a bit of research on the web, my  Lonely Planet book, Mack, the drivers and conductors over at Maria De Leon’s  Manila Station, I learned that my hotel was just nearby and an easy hop  via a tricycle. Although some of these “references” indicated I could  actually walk to it, they were unanimous that it would have been a bit  of walking. Then I said to myself… I walked 7kms going up to the Dambana  Ng Kagitingan in Bataan, so why can’t I walk the maze of this quaint  little city? And walk I did as the first order of the day! I had to walk  around and start roaming the city until noon since I knew from a  previous call that I won’t be allowed to check-in at my hotel until that  time anyway.
With my  weekend pack comfortably on my back, camera strapped to my right hand  and a lighted cigarette on the left, I started walking towards the city  hall. I know that the center of town is always a nice place to start and  in this case, it was just one corner bend away anyway hehe! At 0749H I  passed by the side of the city hall and it was already starting to pick  with loud music of sorts. I realized from the many signage and streamers  that there was a job fair sponsored by one of the big telcos. Walked  past it and at 0751H, I was already at the Tobacco Monopoly historical marker and obelisk  taking a picture of the city hall! Hmm, I suddenly recalled from my  high school history about atrocities of Spanish government officials  during those times – circa 1780’s. I mused… “so why am I wondering  that some government officials in this  country are abusive? It has been so three centuries ago! It has been in our blood all along anyway hehehe"!
Roaming  the plaza brought in some historical facts I either have come across  and forgot or have not yet known to this date. There is a historical  marker (the kind made by the National Historical Commission) that  pronounced for all of us to remember “Santiago A. Fonacier y Suguitan”  who was both a statesman and a  religious leader. And I silently laughed asking myself “so why do  I wonder that priests and bishops run for mayor, governor or congressman in this  country… it has been in our blood all along since the 1800s… and this  mighty great Suguitan, a fellow maroon, has even became a hero”! Not  uncommon after all!

Oh the  morning view of the Marcos Hall  of Justice is cool and calm though not camera friendly due to the  tall trees that line its frontage. And I told myself "sorry camera,  earth has to prevail, so I would rather not get a good view of that  building – if only for them trees to green mother earth"! Another  historical marker in the said park told me that Laoag became a city on  19th June 1965 c/o Republic Act  No. 4584 sponsored by Congressman Simeon M. Valdez during the 4th  session of the 5th congress of this country. Whoa! Wala lang, I just  know now that Laoag City is 40++ years old, yun lang hehe! Across from  the other end of the plaza/park is the provincial capitol of Ilocos Norte – a fine building  reminiscent of all other capitol buildings in this country – and I got  curious why its frontage is dotted with a lot of flagpoles that all bear the Philippine flag.  Hmm, forgot the count but it should be near 50! The markers on its walls  declare that the capitol building was enlarged and remodeled in 1957 under the  auspices of Governor Antonio V. Raquiza and Congressman Ferdinand E.  Marcos – Minority Floor Leader of the House of Representatives – elected  “Most Valuable and Constructive Solon in 1957”. And the remodeled  building was inaugurated in December 28, 1958. See?! I learned a lot!
First curiosity… like many other  cities and towns I have seen, Laoag also has street corners bearing two street-markers. But I have  known from long ago somewhere that this is a political phenomenon  (a.k.a. corruption) than anything. How and why? The incumbents would  decree to contract someone for the creation of street signs (so they can  earn hefty “gifts” for awarding a contract) even if there still are  existing, clear and sturdy street names. Then they can add to their list  of accomplishments something like “installation of street signs in all  corners of the city”! O di ba sosyal?!
At 0805H, I found and was in front of the Museo Ilocos Norte. But it was still an hour ‘till the doors open so I took quick shots of its outside. This fine aged-looking building is actually just behind the capitol.
First interesting sight… an old  Spanish-style wooden house with capiz-windows still intact, still  looking good, still habited, maroon roof AND painted PINK all over! This  one ceremoniously sits at the corner of General Antonio Luna and Don M  Farinas streets. Quite a catchy sight! The pader is low at about below  waist so it does not spoil the total view of the house even from afar.  The window frames are painted white to complete the "dainty" look of  this olden house. Oh yes, while this is in the very middle of the city,  it is  surrounded by trees and other greenery making it more  interesting. And finally, as anywhere, your view of the house from any  angle is unfortunately muddled by a lot of crisscrossing electrical  wires that look like strands of hair from hell! Hehehe, oh well...
Still  wandering around the vicinity of the capitol, I chanced upon what is  called a “Dap-ayan Ti Ilocos  Norte”. I did not really recognize what that sign truly meant but  I had inkling that it probably meant some kind of a market or trade  area or gathering place or something. The signage attracted me to it so I  peeked in. Hmm, it’s a square lined on all sides by stalls that sell  from anything to everything – at least by the looks of it since most  were still closed while in some, the crews were preparing to open their  “establishments”. Just told myself “I will probably come back and visit  this place later in the day”.
Back at the city hall, I went in via the main entrance (the job fair is happening way at the back). Owing to the dark brick-like style of its walls, the passageways in this city hall is dark and kinda eerie before it starts to bustle with people. And contrary to other city halls elsewhere, the passageways are rather narrow than usual. I was sure this place would be cramped and packed with people milling around during weekdays. There is a G.I. Shop inside and I just had to peek in since the name caught my curiosity. I instantly thought it was a military store. Inside the city hall? While still closed, I settled my forehead on a glass wall and there I saw what the G.I. shop was – a Genuine Ilocano Shop! Coolness! Then again, it was still closed – and I thought probably will never open as this was a weekend. Oh well!
Couldn’t take a better pic of the city hall’s facade. Its cramped too with a not so wide parking area and the highway just a few steps away from the building. But I liked those government vehicles painted white and tastefully liveried (I know those are the sticker types) with the scenery and tourist spots of the place. They’re beautiful!





Skirting the city hall towards its southern side (I was like walking back to the Maria De Leon
 bus station), an aged building caught  my curiosity and walked towards it for a clearer view. It’s called the Alejandro Building erected in  1932 and the second floor now houses the Bureau of Immigration offices  while at ground level are some sari-sari store, a photo copying business  and Gordion Travel & Tours.  Visited this travel agency that has just opened their doors for the day  and asked for tour rates, picked some leaflets/info sheets then decided  they were too expensive for me (alone) to avail of. But the two ladies  in there were helpful enough in giving me pointers and useful  information on how I can roam alone taking public transport.
Walked back and past the city hall, under the bridge and emerged upon the entrance to a nice looking church that is overshadowed by the colors of a McDonalds store sitting right at its entrance.
 In fact, McDo covers a big portion of  the church’s very wide frontage. Oh so this is the St. Williams Cathedral built by the  Agustinians in 1612. Nice structure, nice renaissance-looking  architecture – or perhaps it is! Historical piece here! It has seen a  lot of good and bad times since the original structure was built in  1580. It has seen wars and even fire but is now still fine. I got those  quick infos from a little old lady about to enter the church for prayers  whom I “ambushed” and engaged in a little hushed chat about the church!  She spoke English, even if I tried to converse in Tagalog. She  sounded just like my high school teachers and I discovered she should,  since she is a retired school teacher in the first place. Very engaging  old lady though I don't expect her to come across this story in her  lifetime hehe! She even blessed me with her right hand in my forehead  saying "may the Lord guide and bless you while you travel around  Ilocos". And I thanked her profusely, almost instantly even hugged her  to say goodbye (as I would my Lola when she was still around), but I  immediately caught myself and avoided the act as I thought the elderly  people here might still be too conservative to hug strangers. Hehe, just  my thought - no proof there whatsoever!
Far and  across the street from the cathedral’s side is its famous sinking bell tower. I mustered  that in the past there probably was no street here but just a wide  grassy space as can be seen of many churches. This time however, aside  from the big street, the tower is kissed by a house right on its side  where there is a sari-sari store that sells everything including the  famous cellphone loads (top-up). At least the front (the area that  kisses the street had been plastered with a historical marker and a  little cordoned-off area if only to announce the significance of this  bell tower. I asked people around if anyone can enter and climb up  the tower (for I could not see where the entrance might be. They  answered that yes anyone can enter but the person in charge was nowhere  to be found. So I moved on and found a Jollibee!
Breakfast at 0840H – and as if I do breakfast when in Manila, asuuus! But the long “sleepless” trip probably got my innards rumbling so I did my usual meal (C1 + K1 both regular coke) when inside any Jollibee store! The eating area is expansive and looks more like the canteen of a hospital than a street corner fast food restaurant! While eating, I got a little alarmed at some men outside the store regularly darting their glances at me. This is the bustling palengke area in the first place so I first thought of them as muggers. I later found out they were tricycle drivers hoping to get me “for a ride” – whatever I mean with that! And mind you, Laoag is a very friendly place.
Then, curiosity shifted my attention to a table in front of mine where a dad (foreigner) and little lass of about 3 (mix-breed) were conversing while the mom (Ilocana obviously) was getting their breakfast at the counters. One time I heard them blabber in a European language (probably Dutch or German), then the father said “awan pai” and slowly repeated to the child “a-waaaaan pai”. Then they laughed and kissed and embraced. I smiled having learned the banter was all about language. When the mom came with their food, the little dear muttered something in that foreign language then pointed to something saying “i-na-poi”. And the three of them laughed. I know she was saying “rice” in Ilocano. What a jolly Eurasian family! Or should I call them a “Eurocano” family hehe! A heartwarming sight for me indeed!
There was a time I stood up to get water from the counter but was hesitating if I should bring my backpack and camera with me. The guard saw me and readily said (in straight and perfect English): “it’s okay sir, I will watch over your things”! And so I left the backpack on my table but still brought my camera to go fetch
water half smiling and I know tumaas ang  kilay ko! What that guard just said busied my happy curiosity. His use of the word “over” in  that sentence is uncommon amongst Filipinos speaking English – even in the corporate world. It  was just too 'learned' an expression for a guard to say. The “English” curiosity was suddenly  wiped off my mind though, as I got my drinking water since some three or four crews were in one corner busy with a lot of giggles propping up the  Jollibee mascot. It was  obviously new from the looks and color of the material and how they  coached whoever was wearing it. I thought hmm, this must have been the  first time this store got their mascot hehe! They were having fun at it  and so was I watching them. Shortly the mascot walked out of the other  door, unto the street where children followed him. Whoa! It/He walked a  few steps and rode behind a truck which I thought was going to be a  motorcade. Nice day!
Oh on exit, I told the Jollibee guard he spoke very good English and he said thank you sir with a GI smile. GI? "Genuine Ilocano"! remember? 'the GI Shop'?Then he asked me if I was from Japan or Korea (grrr)! And I probably showed a little irritation by saying “hindi ha, taga Quezon City lang ako”. And he said, oh I’m sorry sir. BTW, 'Genuine Ilocanos' have this cute way of pronouncing “sir”, “garlic”, “proper” and the likes hehe! I asked if I can walk to Hotel Tiffany. The reply was “yes sir, pero medyo malayo, mas maganda sumakay ka na lang ng tricycle (pointing to the men outside the store)”. I asked how many blocks away. Then a Jollibee crew butted in with “aah sir, count three streets from here, then turn left, on the fourth corner will be your hotel and it’s just diagonally across our other Jollibee store, easy to find”. So I walked!
Went up to the front desk (2nd floor) and as expected was told that check-in time was still 12NN. I asked if I can leave my bag at their desk so I can roam around without lugging it along and they agreed. So, took out my body bag with the camera and batteries (and lonely planet book) already inside, went to their lobby comfort room to change my shirt and off I went walking to the museum. They open at 9AM remember?
The Museo Ilocos Norte is one fine  place to start learning about Ilocos. The edifice itself is historic  being the 'Old Tabacalera Building' built in 1878 as the administrative  center of Spain’s tobacco monopoly in the country. There is a little  excavation on the left corner from the entrance to reveal the  archeological past of this place. Am not sure but what is now the floor  of this museum seem to have been the ceiling or loft portion of the old  building. Not sure but it looks like that to me. Watch out for the wall  installations, you should see an aged bronze marker that tells about this  place becoming the Ilocandia Museum of Traditional Costumes in September  11 1977 as birthday gift of then First Lady Imelda Romualdez Marcos to  her late husband and president Ferndinand Edralin Marcos. But this  place apparently went to near oblivion in the years that followed.  Examining the marker just outside of the building, you should see the  marble “re-dedication” of this museum by Governor Ferdinand Romualdez  Marcos, Jr. on November 12, 1999 to what now is… this museum. That for  me is even history enough hehe!
But what can be seen inside the Museo Ilocos Norte? Well, lest you lose the urge to see it for yourselves let me summarize it this way: you can see a whole lot of old farm implements, tools and materials, fishing equipment, traditional Ilocano wear, the typical Ilocano farm house, containers, animal remains, the industries, food, ancestral Spanish era house, furniture, utensils instruments, cooking equipment, weaving implements and materials, musical script, musical instruments, a museum store, etc etc., I particularly liked the re-creation of the “pogon”. Its real and life-size. Wow! Do you know what "pogon" means to them? Uh-huh... am not telling here! Plus, those big jars lined outside one wall of the building... many of them! Y'know what for? Aaa, go there to know!
Now the exit area invites your imagination and tickle your itchy feet all the more with good quality enlarged pictures of the beautiful sights to see in Ilocos Norte! Am glad I visited. Learned a lot! And hey, while visiting this museum, picture-taking is not only allowed - it is encouraged!





Outside of the museum, checked the time… it was just 1014H – midmorning! Happily told myself that I can even already go home right that very minute and I’d still be happy having seen and experienced a lot!
But the best was yet to come!
With my  weekend pack comfortably on my back, camera strapped to my right hand  and a lighted cigarette on the left, I started walking towards the city  hall. I know that the center of town is always a nice place to start and  in this case, it was just one corner bend away anyway hehe! At 0749H I  passed by the side of the city hall and it was already starting to pick  with loud music of sorts. I realized from the many signage and streamers  that there was a job fair sponsored by one of the big telcos. Walked  past it and at 0751H, I was already at the Tobacco Monopoly historical marker and obelisk  taking a picture of the city hall! Hmm, I suddenly recalled from my  high school history about atrocities of Spanish government officials  during those times – circa 1780’s. I mused… “so why am I wondering  that some government officials in this  country are abusive? It has been so three centuries ago! It has been in our blood all along anyway hehehe"!
Oh the  morning view of the Marcos Hall  of Justice is cool and calm though not camera friendly due to the  tall trees that line its frontage. And I told myself "sorry camera,  earth has to prevail, so I would rather not get a good view of that  building – if only for them trees to green mother earth"! Another  historical marker in the said park told me that Laoag became a city on  19th June 1965 c/o Republic Act  No. 4584 sponsored by Congressman Simeon M. Valdez during the 4th  session of the 5th congress of this country. Whoa! Wala lang, I just  know now that Laoag City is 40++ years old, yun lang hehe! Across from  the other end of the plaza/park is the provincial capitol of Ilocos Norte – a fine building  reminiscent of all other capitol buildings in this country – and I got  curious why its frontage is dotted with a lot of flagpoles that all bear the Philippine flag.  Hmm, forgot the count but it should be near 50! The markers on its walls  declare that the capitol building was enlarged and remodeled in 1957 under the  auspices of Governor Antonio V. Raquiza and Congressman Ferdinand E.  Marcos – Minority Floor Leader of the House of Representatives – elected  “Most Valuable and Constructive Solon in 1957”. And the remodeled  building was inaugurated in December 28, 1958. See?! I learned a lot!At 0805H, I found and was in front of the Museo Ilocos Norte. But it was still an hour ‘till the doors open so I took quick shots of its outside. This fine aged-looking building is actually just behind the capitol.
First interesting sight… an old  Spanish-style wooden house with capiz-windows still intact, still  looking good, still habited, maroon roof AND painted PINK all over! This  one ceremoniously sits at the corner of General Antonio Luna and Don M  Farinas streets. Quite a catchy sight! The pader is low at about below  waist so it does not spoil the total view of the house even from afar.  The window frames are painted white to complete the "dainty" look of  this olden house. Oh yes, while this is in the very middle of the city,  it is  surrounded by trees and other greenery making it more  interesting. And finally, as anywhere, your view of the house from any  angle is unfortunately muddled by a lot of crisscrossing electrical  wires that look like strands of hair from hell! Hehehe, oh well...Back at the city hall, I went in via the main entrance (the job fair is happening way at the back). Owing to the dark brick-like style of its walls, the passageways in this city hall is dark and kinda eerie before it starts to bustle with people. And contrary to other city halls elsewhere, the passageways are rather narrow than usual. I was sure this place would be cramped and packed with people milling around during weekdays. There is a G.I. Shop inside and I just had to peek in since the name caught my curiosity. I instantly thought it was a military store. Inside the city hall? While still closed, I settled my forehead on a glass wall and there I saw what the G.I. shop was – a Genuine Ilocano Shop! Coolness! Then again, it was still closed – and I thought probably will never open as this was a weekend. Oh well!
Couldn’t take a better pic of the city hall’s facade. Its cramped too with a not so wide parking area and the highway just a few steps away from the building. But I liked those government vehicles painted white and tastefully liveried (I know those are the sticker types) with the scenery and tourist spots of the place. They’re beautiful!
Skirting the city hall towards its southern side (I was like walking back to the Maria De Leon
Walked back and past the city hall, under the bridge and emerged upon the entrance to a nice looking church that is overshadowed by the colors of a McDonalds store sitting right at its entrance.
 In fact, McDo covers a big portion of  the church’s very wide frontage. Oh so this is the St. Williams Cathedral built by the  Agustinians in 1612. Nice structure, nice renaissance-looking  architecture – or perhaps it is! Historical piece here! It has seen a  lot of good and bad times since the original structure was built in  1580. It has seen wars and even fire but is now still fine. I got those  quick infos from a little old lady about to enter the church for prayers  whom I “ambushed” and engaged in a little hushed chat about the church!  She spoke English, even if I tried to converse in Tagalog. She  sounded just like my high school teachers and I discovered she should,  since she is a retired school teacher in the first place. Very engaging  old lady though I don't expect her to come across this story in her  lifetime hehe! She even blessed me with her right hand in my forehead  saying "may the Lord guide and bless you while you travel around  Ilocos". And I thanked her profusely, almost instantly even hugged her  to say goodbye (as I would my Lola when she was still around), but I  immediately caught myself and avoided the act as I thought the elderly  people here might still be too conservative to hug strangers. Hehe, just  my thought - no proof there whatsoever!Breakfast at 0840H – and as if I do breakfast when in Manila, asuuus! But the long “sleepless” trip probably got my innards rumbling so I did my usual meal (C1 + K1 both regular coke) when inside any Jollibee store! The eating area is expansive and looks more like the canteen of a hospital than a street corner fast food restaurant! While eating, I got a little alarmed at some men outside the store regularly darting their glances at me. This is the bustling palengke area in the first place so I first thought of them as muggers. I later found out they were tricycle drivers hoping to get me “for a ride” – whatever I mean with that! And mind you, Laoag is a very friendly place.
Then, curiosity shifted my attention to a table in front of mine where a dad (foreigner) and little lass of about 3 (mix-breed) were conversing while the mom (Ilocana obviously) was getting their breakfast at the counters. One time I heard them blabber in a European language (probably Dutch or German), then the father said “awan pai” and slowly repeated to the child “a-waaaaan pai”. Then they laughed and kissed and embraced. I smiled having learned the banter was all about language. When the mom came with their food, the little dear muttered something in that foreign language then pointed to something saying “i-na-poi”. And the three of them laughed. I know she was saying “rice” in Ilocano. What a jolly Eurasian family! Or should I call them a “Eurocano” family hehe! A heartwarming sight for me indeed!
There was a time I stood up to get water from the counter but was hesitating if I should bring my backpack and camera with me. The guard saw me and readily said (in straight and perfect English): “it’s okay sir, I will watch over your things”! And so I left the backpack on my table but still brought my camera to go fetch
Oh on exit, I told the Jollibee guard he spoke very good English and he said thank you sir with a GI smile. GI? "Genuine Ilocano"! remember? 'the GI Shop'?Then he asked me if I was from Japan or Korea (grrr)! And I probably showed a little irritation by saying “hindi ha, taga Quezon City lang ako”. And he said, oh I’m sorry sir. BTW, 'Genuine Ilocanos' have this cute way of pronouncing “sir”, “garlic”, “proper” and the likes hehe! I asked if I can walk to Hotel Tiffany. The reply was “yes sir, pero medyo malayo, mas maganda sumakay ka na lang ng tricycle (pointing to the men outside the store)”. I asked how many blocks away. Then a Jollibee crew butted in with “aah sir, count three streets from here, then turn left, on the fourth corner will be your hotel and it’s just diagonally across our other Jollibee store, easy to find”. So I walked!
Went up to the front desk (2nd floor) and as expected was told that check-in time was still 12NN. I asked if I can leave my bag at their desk so I can roam around without lugging it along and they agreed. So, took out my body bag with the camera and batteries (and lonely planet book) already inside, went to their lobby comfort room to change my shirt and off I went walking to the museum. They open at 9AM remember?
But what can be seen inside the Museo Ilocos Norte? Well, lest you lose the urge to see it for yourselves let me summarize it this way: you can see a whole lot of old farm implements, tools and materials, fishing equipment, traditional Ilocano wear, the typical Ilocano farm house, containers, animal remains, the industries, food, ancestral Spanish era house, furniture, utensils instruments, cooking equipment, weaving implements and materials, musical script, musical instruments, a museum store, etc etc., I particularly liked the re-creation of the “pogon”. Its real and life-size. Wow! Do you know what "pogon" means to them? Uh-huh... am not telling here! Plus, those big jars lined outside one wall of the building... many of them! Y'know what for? Aaa, go there to know!
Now the exit area invites your imagination and tickle your itchy feet all the more with good quality enlarged pictures of the beautiful sights to see in Ilocos Norte! Am glad I visited. Learned a lot! And hey, while visiting this museum, picture-taking is not only allowed - it is encouraged!
Outside of the museum, checked the time… it was just 1014H – midmorning! Happily told myself that I can even already go home right that very minute and I’d still be happy having seen and experienced a lot!
But the best was yet to come!
Nice post, how I wanted to go there but failed due to lack of time. I had the chance to visit Sta. Cruz and Vigan in Ilocos Sur last October, 2010. The ambiance of Heritage Street in Vigan is very much the same as that of Madrid but not the same as that of Toledo, Albacete and Valencia-4 cities in Spain that I had visited last April, 2009.
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